How to Handle Unruly Hair: Tips for Difficult Textures

As a barber, one of the most important skills you can develop is the ability to work with all hair types and textures. Some clients will come to you with hair that is challenging to manage—whether it’s thick, coarse, curly, or prone to frizz. Handling unruly hair requires not only the right tools and techniques but also a deep understanding of how different hair textures behave. In this blog post, we’ll explore tips and strategies for managing difficult hair textures, helping you deliver exceptional results for every client.

Understanding Hair Texture: The Foundation of Success

The Science Behind Hair Types

Hair texture is largely determined by the shape of the hair follicle. Round follicles produce straight hair, while oval or elliptical follicles result in wavy or curly hair. The shape of the follicle also influences the hair’s thickness and strength, with tightly coiled hair often being more fragile despite its dense appearance.

Common Hair Types and Textures

• Straight Hair: Typically smooth and easy to manage, but can lack volume.
• Wavy Hair: Falls between straight and curly, with a tendency to frizz and form loose waves.
• Curly Hair: Has a definite curl pattern, often with more volume and potential for frizz.
• Coily/Kinky Hair: Tightly coiled and dense, often dry and prone to shrinkage and breakage.

Tools and Products for Managing Unruly Hair

Essential Tools for Difficult Textures

Having the right tools in your arsenal is crucial for managing unruly hair. Different textures require different approaches, so it’s important to choose tools that cater to the specific needs of the hair type you’re working with.

Recommended Tools

• Wide-Tooth Comb: Ideal for detangling curly or coily hair without causing breakage.
• Boar Bristle Brush: Helps distribute natural oils throughout the hair, reducing frizz and adding shine.
• Diffuser Attachment: When blow-drying curly hair, a diffuser helps maintain the curl pattern and minimizes frizz.
• Sharp Scissors: High-quality scissors are essential for cutting thick or coarse hair cleanly and precisely.

Hair Products to Tame Difficult Textures

Using the right products can make a world of difference when dealing with unruly hair. Look for products that moisturize, define, and control the hair without weighing it down or causing buildup.

Must-Have Products

• Leave-In Conditioner: Provides ongoing moisture and helps with detangling, especially for curly and coily hair.
• Hair Serum or Oil: Adds shine, reduces frizz, and helps to smooth down flyaways.
• Curl Cream: Enhances and defines curls while providing moisture and hold.
• Heat Protectant: Essential for protecting hair from heat damage when using blow dryers, flat irons, or curling irons.

Techniques for Cutting and Styling Unruly Hair

Tailoring Your Approach to the Hair Type

Different hair textures require different cutting and styling techniques. Here are some tips for working with various hair types:

Cutting Techniques

• For Thick, Coarse Hair: Use thinning shears to remove bulk and create movement without compromising length. Texturizing the ends can help reduce weight and add softness to the style.
• For Curly Hair: Cut curls individually when the hair is dry to avoid shrinkage and maintain the curl pattern. A layered cut can add shape and prevent the “triangle” effect that often occurs with curly hair.
• For Coily/Kinky Hair: Use a combination of shears and clippers to create a clean shape while preserving the hair’s natural texture. Avoid over-cutting, as coily hair shrinks significantly when it dries.

Styling Techniques

• For Wavy Hair: Enhance the natural wave by applying a curl cream or mousse to damp hair, then diffuse or air-dry. Scrunch the hair gently to encourage wave formation.
• For Curly Hair: Define curls by applying curl cream and using the “twist and scrunch” method. Dry with a diffuser to maintain volume and shape.
• For Coily/Kinky Hair: Consider protective styles like twists or braids that help maintain moisture and reduce breakage. If leaving the hair loose, apply a curl-enhancing product and use a hooded dryer or air-dry to set the style.

Managing Frizz and Flyaways

Understanding the Causes of Frizz

Frizz is often caused by a lack of moisture in the hair, leading it to seek moisture from the air. This is why curly and coily hair, which tends to be drier, is more prone to frizz. Environmental factors such as humidity, as well as over-processing or heat damage, can exacerbate frizz.

Tips for Reducing Frizz

• Hydration: Ensure the hair is well-hydrated by using moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments.
• Avoid Over-Washing: Washing hair too frequently can strip it of natural oils, leading to dryness and frizz. Encourage clients to wash their hair less often and use a hydrating conditioner.
• Heat Protection: Always use a heat protectant before blow-drying or heat styling to prevent damage that can cause frizz.
• Anti-Frizz Serums: Apply a small amount of anti-frizz serum or oil to the hair, focusing on the ends, to smooth down flyaways and add shine.

Communicating with Clients About Their Hair

Education and Maintenance Tips

Clients with unruly hair often struggle with managing their hair on a day-to-day basis. As a barber, you have the opportunity to educate them on how to care for their hair between appointments, ensuring they feel confident and satisfied with their hairstyle.

Client Education Strategies

• Product Recommendations: Suggest specific products that suit the client’s hair type and texture, and explain how to use them effectively.
• Styling Tips: Demonstrate how to style their hair at home, including how to apply products and use tools like diffusers or flat irons.
• Maintenance Advice: Provide advice on how often they should wash, condition, and trim their hair to keep it healthy and manageable.

Conclusion

Handling unruly hair requires skill, patience, and a deep understanding of different hair textures. By equipping yourself with the right tools, products, and techniques, you can confidently manage even the most challenging hair types. At Associated Barber College, we emphasize the importance of mastering these skills, ensuring that our students are prepared to meet the diverse needs of their clients. Whether you’re working with thick, curly, or coily hair, following these tips will help you deliver exceptional results and keep your clients coming back.